Aglianico, Canniolo and Other Wines That Changed My Life December 20, 2009

When it comes to wine, the Italians consider Italy to be an entire world onto itself– and not without some justification.  A good restaurant here will feature the best selections from all around the country, with perhaps a modest “international section”  at the end with a few choices from California, Australia and even France.  In the US, the well-known regions such as Chianti, Montalcino and Barolo tend to dominate the public consciousness.  But it turns out that every province of Italy makes wine– good wine– and some of these are worth seeking out precisely because they’re not as famous.

Consider Aglianico: a grape (and wine) that when made well, tastes like no other.  Think of the particular smoothness of Pinot Noir combined with the structure and richness of something more forceful, like a Barolo.  Grown primarily in the Campania and Basilicata regions, this grape is one of many that originated in Greece and was brought to Italy by Greek settlers.  The name may be a corruption of Vitis hellenica (Latin for “Greek vine”), or it may come from a corruption of Apulianicum, the Latin adjective describing the whole of southern Italy.  In Ancient Rome the grape was the basis for one of the most famous wines– Falernian– and was subject of commentary by Pliny the Elder, a famous historian and winemaker in his own right.

Aglianico today is the basic grape for Basilicata’s only DOC wine, Aglianico del Vulture– so-named because it is grown in the fertile volcanic soil surrounding Mount Vulture.  In Campania, Aglianico is  grown in the area around the village of Taurasi; it’s also grown in the nearby small provinces of Benevento and Molise.  I managed to track down a great example of Aglianico in the US (as any I’ve had here in Italy): look for Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture 2006, for about $16.  Worth finding!

Another interesting exploration is Valpollicella, a blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Molinara (yes, those are grapes!) named after the marble-rich region in Verona where it is grown.  Valpolicellas are often described as light and fragrant, although good examples also have a heavier bacon fat and basalmic vinegar flavor in the background.  For something very distinct, and different, it’s worth finding– and at a price that won’t kill you.  Valpolicella as a region also has a long and noble history, having appeared in charters of the mid 12th century– its etymology is unknown but might derive from the Latin for “Valley of Cellars.”  Valpollicella is essentially the lighter, younger version of the more regal (and expensive) Amarone, which is aged for at least five years and hence demands twice the price.

Moving right along… to Sangrantino, Umbria’s native grape and still mostly unknown outside Italy.  It might be hard to find, but fans of a heartier, meatier red will enjoy the earthy depth of this wine.  The grape is one of the most tannic varieties in the world, and creates wines that are inky purple– almost-black– with a strength of about 14%.  The bouquet is of dark, brooding red fruits with hints of plum, cinnamon, and earth.  The Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG rules require 100 percent Sagrantino, with a required 29 months aging before release.  At it’s best– well-made and aged 10 years– it takes on the more admirable qualities of a good Tuscan.  Admittedly, prices have shot up after quality and fame improved, but you can still reasonably get a good bottle here for around €15-20.  The best might be Milziade Antano, a small producer near Bevagna, while Adanti and Ruggeri also produce amazing examples of this grape.  Can you find it in the States?  Don’t know!

Finally, consider a wine from the cutting edge of the Italian wine world– reclaimed native grapes in the volcanic soil of Mt. Etna in Sicilia, known as Nerello Mascalese.  This is an area that has grown local grapes for thousands of years, but until recently was in poor upkeep.  Now, with scientific knowledge and new investment, they are producing some truly amazing wines.  The bottle we tried was from a producer called Cottanera, the wine called Fatagione, with 85% Nerello Mascalese.  Truly another world.  Doubtful if you can find it in the States– but you never know!